From Pashmina to Kathua: J&K Textiles Eye Green Transition

Ziraat Times Team Report

Srinagar, July 12: India’s growing emphasis on sustainable and circular textile manufacturing is expected to create significant opportunities as well as new compliance challenges for Jammu & Kashmir’s traditional textile, handloom and emerging manufacturing sectors, including Pashmina, carpets, crewel fabrics, silk, dyeing units and textile industries operating in Jammu’s industrial estates.

A policy paper released by the Government of India titled “Weaving Sustainability into India’s Textile Future”, a copy of which has been received by Ziraat Times, outlines a comprehensive roadmap for promoting circular economy practices, sustainable production, waste recovery, eco-labelling and traceability across the textile value chain.

The developments assume particular significance for Jammu & Kashmir, where thousands of livelihoods depend on traditional textile manufacturing and handicrafts, while industrial clusters in Jammu are increasingly seeking to expand textile and apparel manufacturing activities. The Union Territory has a substantial handloom and handicrafts base, with more than 43,000 weavers and around 3.5 lakh artisans engaged in shawls, carpets and related crafts.

Opportunity for Pashmina, Crewel and Carpet Sectors

Experts say the government’s focus on sustainability, traceability and eco-labelling could significantly strengthen the international positioning of Kashmir’s premium textile products.

Authentic Kashmir Pashmina, Kani shawls, hand-knotted carpets, crewel fabrics and traditional woollen products already possess many attributes increasingly valued in global markets, including natural fibres, low-energy production and artisanal manufacturing processes.

The sustainability narrative could particularly benefit Kashmir’s crewel embroidery sector, which primarily uses cotton and natural fabrics with hand embroidery traditions that are relatively low in carbon intensity compared to machine-made products.

Similarly, the emphasis on responsible sourcing and environmental certifications could strengthen the branding of traditional Kashmiri textile products in premium markets in Europe, North America and East Asia.

Implications for Dyes and Textile Processing Units

The report’s strong emphasis on eliminating hazardous chemicals and regulating dyes is likely to have direct implications for textile processing and dyeing units in Jammu &  Kashmir.

Restrictions on benzidine-based dyes and several azo dyes, coupled with growing global demand for eco-friendly products, may require textile manufacturers to increasingly shift towards natural dyes and environmentally compliant chemical processes.

This could present opportunities for revival of traditional natural dyeing techniques historically associated with Kashmiri crafts, while simultaneously requiring investments in cleaner technologies and certification systems.

Industry observers note that eco-friendly dyeing and finishing could emerge as a major competitive advantage for Kashmir’s handcrafted textiles if supported through dedicated policy interventions.

Relevance for Jammu’s Industrial Estates

The policy paper also holds considerable significance for textile and fabric manufacturing units operating in Jammu’s industrial estates, particularly Kathua, Bari Brahmana, Samba and Kartholi, which host a growing base of textile, yarn, fabric and garment-related enterprises. J&K possesses a sizeable industrial infrastructure, with major industrial estates and longstanding proposals for textile manufacturing expansion in Kathua.

Industrial estates in Kathua and other parts of Jammu have increasingly attracted investment in spinning, fabric processing, garment manufacturing and related activities, while earlier plans had envisaged the development of a dedicated textile city in Kathua focusing on cotton, silk and wool-based industries. (DCMSME)

For these manufacturing units, the government’s push towards circular economy practices, green manufacturing and carbon disclosure requirements could necessitate substantial investments in:

• Cleaner production technologies;

• Effluent treatment systems;

• Waste recycling facilities;

• Sustainable sourcing mechanisms;

• Carbon accounting and reporting systems.

At the same time, schemes such as MSE-GIFT and MSE-SPICE, which provide interest subvention and capital subsidies for green technologies and circular economy investments, could offer important support to Jammu’s textile MSMEs.

Export Competitiveness and Market Access

The report highlights growing global demand for sustainable textiles and increased importance of traceability and environmental standards.

For Jammu & Kashmir’s textile sector, this could be particularly relevant as international buyers increasingly insist on sustainability certifications and transparent supply chains.

Initiatives such as Eco-Mark certification, Silk Mark and traceability systems may help strengthen global confidence in products manufactured in Jammu & Kashmir and improve market access for premium products.

The focus on public procurement of upcycled products could also create opportunities for MSMEs engaged in textile manufacturing and recycling.

Challenges Ahead

Despite the opportunities, the sustainability transition may also present considerable challenges.

Many small and medium enterprises, particularly artisan-led units and traditional manufacturers, may find it difficult to comply with evolving global standards related to emissions, chemical usage, traceability and environmental reporting.

The inclusion of the textile sector under the Indian Carbon Market framework and growing emphasis on Scope-1 and Scope-2 emissions reporting could eventually require local manufacturers to develop entirely new compliance mechanisms.

Industry experts therefore believe Jammu & Kashmir will require a dedicated sustainability strategy for its textile sector, focusing on:

• Certification support for Pashmina, crewel and carpet industries;

• Assistance for textile dyeing and processing units in adopting cleaner technologies;

• Green infrastructure support for textile MSMEs in industrial estates;

• Promotion of natural dyes and sustainable fibres;

• Textile waste recovery and recycling initiatives;

• Global branding of environmentally sustainable Kashmiri textiles.

Observers say that if effectively leveraged, India’s sustainability transition could significantly strengthen the international competitiveness of Jammu & Kashmir’s traditional and modern textile sectors, while creating new opportunities for exports, employment and value addition in one of the Union Territory’s most important manufacturing.