A heartbreak in Gulmarg, the fading meadow

By Abdul Arqam

I recently visited Gulmarg with my family after a long time. The name literally translates to “Meadow of Flowers,” and I arrived with a heart full of excitement, carrying with me memories of the Gulmarg I had known and loved over the years.

But honestly, seeing its current state broke my heart. This is definitely not the Gulmarg I fell in love with 30 years ago. Times have changed and the valley has taken a massive hit, with many of the changes visible today leaving a deep sense of sadness and disappointment.

Back then, the stunning landscapes would instantly lift your soul. The vast meadows, flowing streams, trees and surrounding mountains created a landscape that felt naturally beautiful and almost untouched. Today, looking at the towering, chaotic concrete hotels popping up everywhere brings a sharp sting of grief. The character of the landscape appears to be changing rapidly, as concrete structures increasingly dominate an area whose greatest attraction has always been its natural beauty.

The onslaught of speeding vehicles and concrete walls has completely eclipsed the beauty of this paradise on earth. What was once a place where one could quietly experience nature now often feels crowded, congested and increasingly disconnected from the very landscape that brought visitors to Gulmarg in the first place.

The musical streams that used to flow day and night are now dried up and lifeless. Those streams were not merely a part of the scenery; their sound and movement were an integral part of the natural character and charm of Gulmarg. To make matters worse, government departments have left heaps of junked, abandoned vehicles rotting away—an absolute eyesore that further adds to the sense of neglect.

Over-tourism and litter are rapidly poisoning this flower-clad valley. The increasing pressure of visitors, vehicles, construction and waste is placing a heavy burden on an ecosystem that is naturally fragile and cannot continue absorbing unlimited pressure without consequences.

I spoke to some local youths who told me, with tears in their eyes, that the trees have caught a mysterious disease and are dying day by day. Their concern was not simply about individual trees; it reflected a much deeper anxiety about what is happening to the natural environment around them and what Gulmarg may look like if these changes continue unchecked.

Beyond the environmental crisis, the entire valley feels like a fortress, marked by a heavy military presence and security checkpoints at every turn. While security is undeniably important, the scale and visual presence of such arrangements can also influence the experience of visitors and the overall character of a destination that is internationally known for its natural beauty and peaceful mountain landscape.

While massive private hotels have taken over the land, rampant VIP culture, government guest houses, and endless construction have left deep, ugly scars on the landscape. The cumulative effect of these developments is particularly troubling because Gulmarg’s greatest value lies not in the number of buildings it can accommodate, but in the natural environment that has made it one of Kashmir’s most celebrated destinations.

To top it all off, average tourists are getting fleeced – charging nearly ₹1,800 per person for the famous Gondola ride feels like straight-up economic exploitation. For an ordinary family visiting Gulmarg, such costs can add considerably to the overall expense of a trip, raising questions about whether the benefits of tourism are being balanced with the experience and affordability expected by ordinary visitors.

If we want to save Gulmarg from permanent destruction

If we want to save Gulmarg from permanent destruction, both the government and the public must act immediately. The objective should not simply be to attract more tourists, build more hotels or increase commercial activity, but to ensure that tourism remains compatible with the ecological limits and natural character of the valley.

Eco-friendly construction

We must ban concrete skyscrapers and switch to sustainable materials like wood and eco-friendly alternatives that protect the local ecosystem. Construction in such a fragile landscape should be carefully regulated so that new structures do not overwhelm the natural surroundings or permanently alter the character of the meadow.

Gulmarg should not be allowed to become another concrete-dominated tourist town. Its architecture and construction practices should instead complement the surrounding landscape and preserve the character that has made the destination famous in the first place.

Reviving the streams

We need to stop blocking natural water bodies. Letting them flow freely is the only way the valley’s lush greenery can bounce back.

The streams and natural water channels of Gulmarg are an important part of its ecological system and scenic beauty. Their disappearance or obstruction should therefore be treated as a serious environmental concern rather than simply as a change in the landscape.

A better balance

While security is undeniably important, the military footprint needs to be balanced with the geography and capacity of the land. Visitors should feel like they are entering a peaceful getaway, not a military zone.

The same principle of balance should apply to construction, tourism, transportation and commercial activity. Gulmarg cannot accommodate unlimited development simply because there is continuing demand from tourists. The capacity of the land, its water resources, forests, meadows and natural drainage systems must remain central to every development decision.

The government must step up, establish strict environmental laws, and rigorously enforce them. Environmental regulations have little meaning if construction, waste disposal, water channels and land use continue without effective monitoring and enforcement.

The survival and beauty of Gulmarg are a part of our heritage – we cannot let it fade away.

If the present generation allows uncontrolled construction, pollution, over-tourism and environmental degradation to continue, future generations may inherit a place that carries the name of the “Meadow of Flowers” but has lost much of what made that name meaningful.

The time to protect Gulmarg is now, before the damage becomes permanent.