Kashmir’s handicrafts: A heritage on the brink

By: A P Vicky Shaw (Chairman PHDCCI Kashmir)

My family has been part of this journey for over a century — four generations immersed in the world of Kashmiri handicrafts. For us, artisans are not just workers; they are family. I have seen their tired eyes and weathered hands breathe life into art that machines will never know how to feel. I have also witnessed a golden era, now fading from memory, when Kashmiri carpets in the 1980s were among India’s proudest exports, admired across continents for their unparalleled craftsmanship.

Kashmir’s handicrafts are not just about commerce, they are a chronicle of legacy, identity and the soul of a people. Every carpet, shawl, paper-mâché masterpiece, walnut wood carving and copper creation carries within it a piece of the Kashmiri spirit. Our artisans are not merely craftsmen; they are guardians of centuries-old traditions, weaving with their hands what no machine can ever imitate: emotion, patience, and cultural memory. Yet today, this living heritage stands at a painful crossroads, struggling for survival against the relentless tide of machine-made imitations and market apathy.

The world has changed dramatically. Industrialization has redrawn trade dynamics, and modern markets prioritize speed, affordability, and volume over artistry. Orders for pashmina shawls, woodwork, copperware, khatamband ceilings, Sozni, and crewel embroidery that once sustained generations of artisans are now being churned out by lifeless machine looms, CNC routers, and embroidery machines in industrial estates from Zakura and Ganderbal to Amritsar and Ludhiana.

This narrative is eerily familiar. It mirrors the historical decline witnessed in Iran, the very land from which Kashmir inherited much of its craftsmanship. In Iran, handwoven carpets were once the heart of culture and economy, so revered that selling machine-made versions was once considered a crime. When machine production was introduced in the 1960s, experts warned it would destroy the nation’s heritage and the livelihood of its artisans. They were right. While machine-made carpets are still considered inferior there, the handwoven industry never regained its original splendor. A national pride was quietly diminished by mass production.

Kashmir now stands at the same precipice. What is most alarming is the deceit creeping into our markets, where machine-made products are shamelessly masqueraded as handmade treasures. This betrayal exploits our artisans and deceives buyers, eroding the deep trust once placed in Kashmiri craft. The nexus of hefty driver commissions and dummy “artisans” has created a mafia that preys on tourists, threatening to tarnish the Kashmiri brand globally.

Furthermore, the financial assistance provided by the government for clusters, artisans, export incentives, and expos must be utilized with utmost responsibility. It is imperative to verify that this aid truly benefits the artisans it is intended for, rather than being siphoned off and wasted.

To save our heritage, bold and immediate steps are required. I strongly believe we must:

Establish a dedicated marketplace in Kashmir around Gulmarg or srinagar exclusively for certified handmade products, a sanctuary where authenticity is preserved and guaranteed

Enact strict laws and punishments for those disguising machine-made items as handmade and for those perpetuating exploitative commission chains

Launch awareness campaigns to educate buyers on how to distinguish between authentic Kashmiri craft and its imitations

Provide minimum wages and social security to ensure artisans can work with dignity, not under the shadow of poverty

Offer educational opportunities for artisans’ children, ensuring this legacy is not abandoned out of helplessness

Guarantee marketing assistance and quality certifications through the handicrafts department to restore buyer confidence

We must recognize one truth: machine-made and handmade items may co-exist. But coexistence must not mean cannibalization. Handmade Kashmiri crafts must remain protected, supported by law and conscience, while machine-made products find their place in separate, clearly defined markets with proper machine made tagging.

I speak not just as a Chairman but as the heir to a community that has lived and breathed this craft for over a hundred years. The loss of an artisan is not merely the loss of a job. When an artisan lays down his loom, chisel, or needle, it is a tradition silenced, a story abandoned, and a culture left incomplete.

Today, we stand where Iran once stood. But unlike them, we have the gift of hindsight. Let us not repeat their mistakes. Let us act with urgency and conscience so that the hands of Kashmiri artisans continue to create—not for museums, but for the living world. To ensure these traditions do not wither but continue to shine for generations to come, a concerted effort is required.

The government, endowed with significant resources and a developmental mandate, must lead this charge. This requires enacting robust policies, dedicating substantial budgets, and initiating comprehensive strategies focused on artisan welfare, authentic market access, stringent quality control, and dismantling the networks dealing in counterfeit goods.

Concurrently, citizens are vital stewards of this heritage. Through conscious patronage, vocal advocacy, and a commitment to authenticity—by championing genuine artisans and challenging the sale of machine-made imitations—the public can drive demand for the real.

Only through this united front of governmental action and civic responsibility can we ensure a thriving and prosperous future for Kashmir’s iconic artistic legacy.

The writer is a prominent businessman and Chairman of PHDCCI Kashmir chapter.